food

The midlife crisis of the American restaurant review

Via Vancouver’s @ScoutMagazine, “An essay in the LA Review of Books on the midlife crisis of the American restaurant review” A lot of this ring true for me. Here in Vancouver’s heavily Asian-influenced dining, most restaurants understand that share plates are a thing. An appetizer-to-dessert review doesn’t make much sense for this. When traveling elsewhere — it has happened to me in Toronto (farm to table small plates) and Berlin (high end Turkish) — I’ve had servers explain sharing plates to me. It never occurred to me that this is something that needs to be experienced or taught, having grown...